Sunday, March 27, 2011

Edinburgh Spring - The Pentlands

It was a very mild and sunny Sunday morning in Edinburgh today and I had come down with a dose of cabin fever so I really wanted to get out and do something today. As I hadn't planned anything, I decided to opt for the simple option and head into The Pentlands. Also, Emily needed the car so I simply jumped on the number 15 bus and got off at Hillend Ski Centre.
Looking up below Caerketton Craigs, Pentland Hills
Looking up below Caerketton Craigs, Pentland Hills
Hillend and Lothianburn Golf Club from Caerketton Craigs, Pentlands
Hillend and Lothianburn Golf Club from Caerketton Craigs, Pentlands
After the steep ascent along the East of the ski runs, I decided not to head directly for the top of Caerketton Hill. Instead, I took the path that traverses the foot of the steeper North slopes. The main reason for this was to check out the crags that sit at the very top of the North slopes. I see these craggy slopes regularly when driving around Edinburgh but had never been up here specifically to check them out for climbing or scrambling potential. Indeed, just a few weeks ago I had been browsing through the SMC Lowland Outcrops guidebook and found a couple of routes listed but they were far from recommended. Also, UKC has some winter routes listed for Caerketton Craigs so I was keen to see for myself what potential there was for climbing.
Looking North towards Edinburgh from Caerketton Craigs, Pentlands
Looking North towards Edinburgh from Caerketton Craigs, Pentlands
Looking North towards Edinburgh from Caerketton Craigs, Pentlands
Looking North towards Edinburgh from Caerketton Craigs, Pentlands
As I got higher and found myself at the bottom of the crag, the rocks were heavily vegetated and over-grown. Looking up, I could clearly see 3 'mini' gullies that would be 'do-able' given the right conditions in winter. I continued on up the steepest section of rock I could find, over green and patchy rock. I would say that there was a very short section of Moderate to Difficult but nothing more and very very short at that. All the same, still enjoyable and a far more interesting approach to the summit. A I stepped up onto the top, a large walking group got a bit of a surprise as I appeared out of nowhere to spoil a couple of their Edinburgh city panoramas. I grinned at them and pushed on towards Allermuir.
Climbing up Caerketton Craigs, Pentlands
Climbing up Caerketton Craigs, Pentlands
Castlelaw Hill and Scald Law from Caerketton Hill, Pentlands
Castlelaw Hill and Scald Law from Caerketton Hill, Pentlands
It was marvellous weather - extremely mild with only a very slight breeze. The ground was quite dry and the grass was scorched and golden in the sun, as I headed over the top of Capelaw Hill. I had fantastic views of Edinburgh and South towards the Scald Law ridge. Stunning.
Edinburgh from Caerketton Hill, Pentlands
Edinburgh from Caerketton Hill, Pentlands
Looking back across to Caerketton Craigs, Pentlands
Looking back across to Caerketton Craigs, Pentlands
Pushing on, I safely negotiated the dreaded 'blue bog' in the 'drainage basin' between Bell's Hill and Black Hill, before heading up the latter's steep, heather-clad slopes. From Black Hill I had a tremendous vista all around as dusk began. The dramatic clouds in the sky coupled with the falling sun made for a stunning backdrop to East Kip and West Kip.
Caerketton from Byerside Hill above Windy Door Nick, Pentlands
Caerketton from Byerside Hill above Windy Door Nick, Pentlands
Scald Law ridge from Capelaw Hill, Pentlands
Scald Law ridge from Capelaw Hill, Pentlands
I nipped over to my final top of the day: Hare Hill and then quickly on towards Bavelaw Castle. Emily kindly came and picked me up from Bonaly to save me the long walk back to Hillend in the dark!
Heading up Capelaw Hill, Pentlands
Heading up Capelaw Hill, Pentlands
Looking towards Edinburgh from Capelaw Hill, Pentlands
Looking towards Edinburgh from Capelaw Hill, Pentlands
Scald Law ridge from Capelaw Hill, Pentlands
Scald Law ridge from Capelaw Hill, Pentlands
Dusk from Hare Hill, Pentlands
Dusk from Hare Hill, Pentlands
East Kip and West Kip at dusk from Hare Hill, Pentlands
East Kip and West Kip at dusk from Hare Hill, Pentlands
Dusk at Bavelaw Castle, Pentlands
Dusk at Bavelaw Castle, Pentlands
A great day out in the Pentlands and well worth checking out Caerketton Craigs - worth remembering for possible winter fun.

Sunday, March 13, 2011

The Cobbler and the return of winter

Looking down on Arrochar from Ardgartan Forest
Looking down on Arrochar from Ardgartan Forest
Looking down on Arrochar from Ardgartan Forest
Looking down on Arrochar from Ardgartan Forest
After a distinct lack of winter in Glen Clova, I had been keeping a close eye on the weather and the amount of snow in the highlands. It seemed that there had been a sizeable dump of snow recently and the avalanche risk was high as a result. However, after a quick chat, James and I agreed that a Traverse of The Cobbler would be a pretty safe bet.
Heading up the path from Arrochar through Ardgartan Forest
Heading up the path from Arrochar through Ardgartan Forest
Looking down Loch Long from above Ardgartan Forest
Looking down Loch Long from above Ardgartan Forest
We left Edinburgh early and James drove in the dark to Arrochar. We had soon geared up and were leaving the shore car park, next to the turning for Succoth. We crossed the A83 and headed straight up the hill into the woods. We followed the old, wet mine track upwards until we met the main path that traverses the foot of Creag an Fhithich. We were still below the clouds and there wasn't much wind - more importantly, it wasn't raining - but it was hard going in our big boots and with our heavy packs. As we reached the main path, things around us were beginning to look quite wintery, and we had a great view down to Arrochar (still very green looking) below.
Looking along the Allt a' Bhalachain to The Cobbler
Looking along the Allt a' Bhalachain to The Cobbler
A rather wintery-looking Cobbler
A rather wintery-looking Cobbler
We carried on and followed the path around to meet the Allt a' Bhalachain and into the full on Scottish winter weather. The cloud was low in front of us, but as we headed up the North banks of the river towards Coire a' Bhalachain, the mighty Cobbler emerged occasionally to greet us. As we got closer, we realised that we were going to need to head West sometime very soon... so we did... and we soon started swimming through waist-deep powder. Needless to say, it was tough going and as we approached the base of the 'ramp' at the bottom of the South Peak, the wind came rushing through from the West and things got rather 'chilly'.
A rather wintery-looking Cobbler
A rather wintery-looking Cobbler
The 'swimming' approach the The Cobbler's South Peak
The 'swimming' approach the The Cobbler's South Peak
We got our gear on and managed to find a sheltered spot for the first belay. With a solid wire and a good cam firmly in place, I headed up the first pitch. We had thought about moving together, but the first part of the 'ramp' looked quite steep and a few tricky sections. Nonetheless, the worst was soon successfully negotiated and I was at the top of the steepest section. With the help of a half-buried axe belay on the other side of a big ledge, I brought James up safely. He then raced up to the summit of the South Peak and I simply followed behind, as the slope angle wasn't particularly steep. There was plenty of ice underneath the fresh powder, so progress was relatively swift.
A rather wintery-looking Cobbler
A rather wintery-looking Cobbler
Our route ahead on the South Peak of The Cobbler
Our route ahead on the South Peak of The Cobbler
James found a good block and threw down the rope ready for the abseil. James went first; down to a wide ledge 30 metres below - then I followed. Unfortunately, we then discovered that the rope had jammed around the block above us and no amount of brute force made any difference. We couldn't go down from the ledge, as below us was a further vertical drop for 20 metres. We couldn't retrieve the rope so our only option was to attempt to climb up the rope - well... James did!
James on the ridge on the South Peak of The Cobbler
James on the ridge on the South Peak of The Cobbler
Looking towards the summit of The Brack from the South Peak of The Cobbler
Looking towards the summit of The Brack from the South Peak of The Cobbler
I didn't envy him one bit. He fixed two Prusiks and made his way up the rope. We had a chat about how jammed the rope actually was, and whether it was a good idea or not to weight it. We figured that it was probably best avoided, as the ground was a little less steep to the left; but to the right were the rope ran was a sheer face. James made great progress up the crag but suddenly he slipped off on the final steep section. There was a horrible sound of metal against rock and I saw James pendulum from left to right as the Prusiks took hold of the rope... thankfully the rope held fast. He then traversed left again and this time reached the top safely - much to my relief, as all I could do was watch helplessly from below. Time was now pressing on, and we realised that it would soon be dark. After some shouting back and forth we agreed that it would be quicker (and the most sensible) for me to climb back up to join him and we could retreat down the way we came... or rather: we THOUGHT it would be quicker!
Looking back Southeast from the South Peak of The Cobbler
Looking back Southeast from the South Peak of The Cobbler
Arthur's Seat (South Peak) Summit on The Cobbler
Arthur's Seat (South Peak) Summit on The Cobbler
It turned out that I took a similar whipper to James but I ended up hanging down the blank vertical wall and all I could do was make use of a couple of tiny edges to slowly pull myself higher and rely on James to take in more rope - slowly I got higher. I was totally wiped when I eventually pulled over the top and collapsed in a wreck in the snow. There was only one place we were going now: down.
James on the South Peak of The Cobbler
James on the South Peak of The Cobbler
On the summit of the South Peak of The Cobbler
On the summit of the South Peak of The Cobbler
We wasted to time in descending down the ramp. The weather had closed in a little and the light was fading fast. James rigged an abseil from a lonely small tree and we had soon cleared all major difficulties. In our haste to retreat, we had veered off down the slope to the right, below An t-Sron. Instead of wasting time and contouring round to the Allt a' Bhalachain, we headed straight for the edge of the Ardgartan Forest. In front of me, I saw James' lower half vanish as he disappeared into a hidden stream below the snow. As I approached him to offer assistance, I promptly disappeared beside him - much to my surprise - soaked!
South Peak summit on The Cobbler
South Peak summit on The Cobbler
James abseiling down the South Peak of The Cobbler
James abseiling down the South Peak of The Cobbler
James abseiling down the South Peak of The Cobbler
James abseiling down the South Peak of The Cobbler
After slowly crossing the complex terrain, we reached the trees but found them extremely dense and hard to penetrate. With time ticking on, we had no option but to force our way through the trees and down the steep banks of the forest. Eventually we reached a forestry track heading Northwest; that we quickly followed back to the car park. It was late when we got back to the car - weary and soaked to the skin. We now had the long drive back to Edinburgh to reflect on a pretty full-on adventure with many experiences thrown in.
James retrieving our rope from the South Peak of The Cobbler
James retrieving our rope from the South Peak of The Cobbler
James abseiling down the South Peak of The Cobbler
James abseiling down the South Peak of The Cobbler

Saturday, March 5, 2011

A thawing Glen Clova

James and I had a bit of a late start on Saturday, and we didn't get around to leaving Edinburgh until 1pm. However, we made good time and we were soon gearing up in the car park between Glendoll Lodge and Downie.
James gazing into Winter Corrie, Glen Clova
James gazing into Winter Corrie, Glen Clova
James and I had made some ambitious plans for winter this year but my injuries over the last couple of months had meant that we were yet to get out and do anything together this season. We feared that winter had gone, as the hills looked rather 'green'. Looking across from the car park, we looked up into Winter Corrie and could see that there was probably just 'enough' snow in some of the easier gully lines. We could see from the map that the approach around The Doll to Winter Corrie wasn't going to take us long, so we geared up and headed up the track past Acharn.
Looking back down into Glendoll from the entrance to Winter Corrie, Glen Clova
Looking back down into Glendoll from the entrance to Winter Corrie, Glen Clova
The approach was very steep after we left the forest, and the ground was also broken and tricky. It also didn't help that my leg and ankle weren't quite match fit! As the ground flattened out, we had a great view into the corrie and we paused to discuss a plan. Looking at the crag, it looked like the only gully line that was almost complete was Central Gully II. With our minds made up, we headed straight for the base of the climb.
Looking down into Winter Corrie from the first belay on Central Gully II, Glen Clove
Looking down into Winter Corrie from the first belay on Central Gully II, Glen Clove
With our crampons on and our axes in our hand, we pitched our way up the gully. At the car, the temperature had felt quite mild, but there was plenty of ice around and there had clearly been a thaw over the past week or so. Too good an opportunity not to screw in a 'stubby' half way up. As we got higher, the snow and ice was firmer and there was more of it - much to our delight.
James on the first pitch of Central Gully II, Winter Corrie, Glen Clove
James on the first pitch of Central Gully II, Winter Corrie, Glen Clove
Plenty of gear placements were to be had at the sides of the gully and James was soon on the final pitch and over the top. As I followed, I was surprised to find a rather large cornice at the top, that James had managed to cut through and negotiate successfully.
Very bored at the first belay of Central Gully II, Winter Corrie, Glen Clova
Very bored at the first belay of Central Gully II, Winter Corrie, Glen Clova
It was getting late and the light was fading fast. The most obvious and quickest way down was to abseil down the adjacent gully. Well, it would've been... if we hadn't mistaken the patch of snow, that we descended, for the top of the gully! We quickly ran out of snow and were standing at the top of a steep crag face. Luckily there was a good large flake that we managed to abseil from, but we had a brief moment of cursing when we thought that we were going to have to abandon the rope stuck on the flake. Fortunately it came down undamaged and intact after a bit of brute force.
James on the final pitch and approaching the top of Central Gully II, Winter Corrie, Glen Clove
James on the final pitch and approaching the top of Central Gully II, Winter Corrie, Glen Clove
With our head-torches now on, we looked back up and saw that the descent gully was a little further over to the right of where we had come down - note to self! It was after 9 by the time we reached the car park. A great day that felt like a bit of a mini adventure full of fun.